I believe you swapped out the controller, so the 2nd controller should not be suspect, but 'like' electronics devices often have 'like' defects, keep this in mind, sad but true. Since your problem is happening when the blower is in operation, you should look at that low voltage circuit that operates the blower relay. Since my failed wire was the one that operated the condenser, the problem never happened in the winter. Eventually, within less than 1 minute, the uninsulated portion of the thermostat wire to the condenser touched together and a dead short on that control circuit blew the fuse. A weed-wacker had pealed the insulation off the wire and when the condenser fan moved the air thru the condensing unit, the wire fluttered in the breeze. I traced the problem to the thermostat wire that went to the outdoor unit. I turned on the AC and after a 5 minute thermostat delay, the compressor contactor powered up for about a minute or less, then the fuse blew again. I replace the fuse and tested the furnace and everything was fine. I found that the fuse I added to the circuit failed (good thing I added that fuse). I replaced the transformer for a customer in September (cooling season was over and the heater would not work). Picture of the circuit board with the fuse and or the model number of the furnace might help.įor example: I had a similar situation with a bad transformer. Also, look at the fan circuit thru the circuit board. Look at the green wire from the thermostat to be in direct contact with the common somewhere. That fuse is to protect the transformer from letting the smoke out. the motor winding on the blower motor is line voltage (110v or 220v) and the fuse is on the low voltage circuit. This means that if there is a slight, harmless power increase, the fuse will not blow.No. When choosing the correct fuse for your application, you should choose a fuse with a nominally higher current rating than the device that it is being used in. What current rating should you choose?Ĭartridge fuses are available in a range of standard amperages.
They are incredibly safe as they do not produce flames, arcs, or gas when they burn out and break the circuit. Here are some of the most common markings you will find on a cartridge fuse.Ĭartridge fuses are a relatively cheap way of protecting electrical equipment from short circuits and overcurrent. Selecting the correct fuse speed is essential for the protection of your device. What are the different types of fuse markings and speed codes?Ĭylindrical cartridge fuses are used in a range of industrial, commercial, and domestic applications. Once a fuse has blown, it will need replacing to make the circuit complete again and allow the flow of current.
Put simply, when a fuse blows, the circuit is broken. This is often referred to as burning out or blowing out. When the wire melts, it breaks the circuit which prevents any damage. How do cartridge fuses work?Ĭartridge fuses contain a piece of wire that melts when too much current flows through the circuit. RS Components stock a comprehensive range of cartridge fuses from industry-leading brands including Cooper Bussmann, Littelfuse, Mersen and of course RS PRO. For more information on cartridge fuses please see our complete guide to fuses. Cartridge fuses are typically constructed from ceramic, glass, or porcelain. They are cylindrical in shape and have a contact point at each end.
Cartridge fuses are low-cost electrical safety devices that are used for the overload protection of electrical circuits and appliances.
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